3 Tab Shingles How To Install

Download Commodity

Download Article

Shingles protect sloping rooftops from the furnishings of pelting, snow and hail while providing an attractive crown for the house. Keeping a solid roofing layer of shingles is an important way to avert water damage and leaks. Doing information technology properly will keep yous without problems for 20 or 40 years. Laying shingles tin be difficult and hot work, just the advantage of an attractive, watertight roof can be worth it.

1. one

   Size your shingles appropriately. Depending on how you lot're going to organize your rows and courses, some roofers similar to cut v variable sizes of shingles when using the basic three-tab variety. Basically, y'all'll cut off one-half tab-width of the first tab to outset the showtime form, changing the necessary area to fill up with each row, shifting the "slots." Usually, the post-obit cuts are useful:

   • A half tab off for your kickoff course shingles,
   • A full tab for your 2d course shingles
   • 1.five tabs off of your 3rd class shingles,
   • 2 tabs off your fourth course shingles
   • For your fifth course, cutting off half of the final tab
   • Keep your sixth course tabs intact

2. 2

   Lay a starting row at the bottom of the roof along the border. ^[one] Place nails in the three tab shingles about three/4 inch (1.eight centimeters) in a higher place the cutouts, near where the tab meets the upper part of the shingle. Yet, brand certain that you lot exercise non smash into the tar strip. Also place a nail two inches from each stop of the shingle, in line with the other two. In all, employ four nails per three-tab shingle.

   • Nailing here will crusade the adjacent shingle to cover the blast heads and allow the next and subsequent rows of nails in shingles to always penetrate and hold the top edge of the lower row (this allows viii nails to hold each shingle).
   • If the nail gun is firing besides deeply, well-nigh mashing through the shingles, and so the nails will soon pull through and come loose. Prepare the air compressor and gun depth setting lower.

   Advertisement

3. iii

   Lay the starting time row of shingles directly covering the narrow starter row. Snap a horizontal chalk line over the starting row to use as a guide.^[2] Cutting half dozen inches off the length of the beginning starter shingle nailed on, then apply the rest of them full size. Shifting them in this manner will join the ends of the outset regular row of shingles placed over the starter shingles. This is the basic, sometimes called "straight up" manner of laying shingles.

   • For the kind of shingles y'all purchase there may be a special starter row of shingles or a roll of strip cloth that y'all cutting to the length of your roof.
   • Alternatively, you tin can utilize a starting row of full-sized shingles by turning them with the tabs pointing upward.

4. 4

   Lay the 2d row of shingles. Set the start shingle of the second row back a half tab, six inches (17 centimeters), from the edge of first shingle on the get-go row and then that the bottom of its tabs but touches the tops of the cutout slots on the shingle beneath. This 1/2 tab has to exist cutting off where it hangs off the left edge of the gable roof.

   • Snap a vertical chalk line from the inside edge of the offset shingle on the second row to the top of the roof, and from the inside border of the beginning shingle to the top of the roof. These chalk lines will serve as a guide for subsequent even-numbered rows of shingles, and odd-numbered rows, respectively. Continue working horizontally up the roof until you lot reach the peaks.

5. 5

   Shingle around stacks, vents and chimneys every bit necessary. Nail pieces of aluminum sheeting over holes that you can stick your finger through to protect roofing over holes from sagging, dimpling, cracking and leaking.

   • Stack pipes, vents and chimneys are surrounded with metal flashing laid over tar. Shingles should exist interlaced with this flashing, which is usually cemented and nailed-down under upper shingles, but over the shingles on the sides. This is so water will run down the roof just non under the interlacing. For stacks and vents, have the bottom 2 or 3 rows that meet the flashing go nether it, while the upper rows go over the flashing.

6. 6

   Interlace the flashing around the chimney with the rows of shingles. Cement a canvas metal flashing apron over the upper edge of the chimney flange before laying shingles over it and cement another flashing apron over the lower one-half. And then cover the lower apron on each cemented side layer of flashing that tucks nether the top frock using asphalt covering cement.

7. 7

   Bring the ridge edges together with a ridge-capping layer. You tin can either use special shingles called ridge shingles or cut a number of regular shingles into iii tabbed, equal pieces and bend each so they fit snugly on the roof peak and nail them into identify. You'll need longer nails for this office, every bit you lot're driving through more layers of shingles.

   Advertisement

1. 1

   Empathise the basic patterns. You'll get the most life out of your shingles and your roof past laying them in a smart blueprint. The bones straight upwardly pattern already described is possibly the easiest and about commonly used, but professional roofers have different opinions nearly the most proper and efficient method of laying the shingles to get the virtually life out of them, which differ slightly in the amount of overlap and the design in which you install them. The basic patterns include:

   • the straight-up design
   • the half pattern
   • four-inch offset
   • 5-inch kickoff

2. 2

   Stagger each course to achieve the half pattern. All the other patterns piece of work in essentially the same way, offsetting the courses by a detail amount. For the 6-inch or "half" get-go, you can protect butt joints and horizontally-moving water by starting a new course six-inches in every row. Every seventh course, the butt joints will realign and offer stability and protection.^[three]

3. 3

   Consider four and five inch offsets for added protection. The method is exactly the same, though the measurement of the showtime is slightly unlike. In an offset of four inches, standard shingles will realign every ten courses, while the five inch offsets will realign every eight. Understanding the benefits of each will assistance you decide which method to utilize for your roof:

   • The short overlap of the four inch beginning is somewhat easier, allowing y'all to employ cutouts to overlap every two courses, making less work for you. Unfortunately, because of this, the design is less desirable for extremely cold climates or very wet places.
   • For most DIY roofers, the five-inch offset is the most desirable blueprint. It offers the most protection per shingle, making it much less likely that runoff volition cut through the in-betweens, hiding shingle irregularities, and getting the most blindside for your buck.

4. 4

   Consider "racking" shingles until you lot reach the top on each side. The racking technique uses two sizes of the first shingle of each row, the regular 3 tab pieces and shortened pieces for each end, working vertically rather than horizontally. Information technology goes much faster, allowing yous to keep your tools next to you as yous work and avoiding having to constantly reposition. ^[4]

   • Racking shingles sometimes likewise may create a status called "pattern curling," where the shingles whorl and accident in the wind, at the places where the racked columns join, because of lifting the end of a shingle to identify the adjacent shingle and lifting the end loftier enough to nail the next shingle underneath each of the overlapping shingles. This crimper may lead to water getting under shingles, leaking at the places where racked columns meet.
   • In some cases, racking may void the manufacturer'southward warranty on the expected leak-proofing quality and useful life of some brands of shingles. It's a common practice amongst contractors.

   Advertisement

Add New Question

• Question

  Practise I need to underlay before installing shingles?

  

  David Bitan
  Roofing Contractor & Maintenance Professional

  David Bitan is a roofing professional, licensed contractor, and the owner and founder of Bumble Roofing based in Southern California. With over 12 years of construction industry experience, David specializes in restoring, repairing, and maintaining residential, commercial, and industrial roofs. With over 60 years of combined experience, Bumble Roofing provides easy, friendly services to structures including residential, commercial, industrial, multi-family, and government buildings along with hospitals, hotels, and churches.

  

  Roofing Contractor & Maintenance Professional

  Expert Answer

  Underlayments help prevent leaks from getting through to the forest underneath, so you should install it only in case.

• Question

  What is the everyman air temperature for roof shingles?

  

  Mark Spelman is a Full general Contractor based in Austin, Texas. With over 30 years of construction experience, Mark specializes in amalgam interiors, project management, and project estimation. He has been a construction professional since 1987.

  

  Construction Professional

  Expert Respond

  You want to wait till temperatures are averaging 55 degrees before installing shingles. The shingles are suitable for cold and warm climates.

• Question

  Does my first row of starter shingles extend over the edge to cover the drip edge?

  

  Marking Spelman is a General Contractor based in Austin, Texas. With over xxx years of construction experience, Marker specializes in constructing interiors, project management, and project estimation. He has been a construction professional since 1987.

  

  Structure Professional

  Skilful Answer

  This starter strip should line upwardly with your drip edge. The baste edge is installed to create a straight roof line.

Ask a Question

200 characters left

Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.

Submit

Advertisement

Video

• Laying shingles is both faster and easier if you work with ane or more partners.

• Avoid walking over or cutting the felt and shingles during the middle of the day on hot days, as the heat tin can partially melt the felt-paper and the underside of asphalt shingles, making them gooey and easier to damage by stretching, mashing and ripping.^[5] Nonetheless, it is easier to cut shingles from the bundles that are warmed up.

• If a nail hits a crack or pigsty in wood deck, it can and will work up over time, through the shingle in a higher place, and then appear sticking upwards through a 1/iv inch (approx 6.5mm) hole, in the roofing causing a leak.

Advertisement

• If you lot don't feel comfortable working on the sloped roof yourself, hire someone else to practice it.^[6] Climbing nigh on a high-sloped, angled roof requires caution with safety harness, straps, cables, scaffolding, specialized equipment and methods to avoid slipping, falling, or dropping tools or materials sliding off.

Advert

Things You'll Need

• Bundles of shingles
• Roofing nails
• Nailing-discs, for securing paper
• Hammers
• Pneumatic (air) nail gun (optional)
• Felt paper or other "underlayment" material for the shingles
• Tar or roofing cement
• Metallic flashing
• Sheet metal
• Roofing blade. (They have a claw shape that makes it easier to cut through the shingles.)
• Chalk line
• Roof harness, brackets, toe boards, jacks (similar to shelves) or scaffolding organization -- if the angle of the roof is high-pitched
• Fork or foursquare shovel, for tear-off
• Drip edge
• Nails, coil nails
• Slap stapler
• Staples
• Tape measure
• Directly edge for cutting evenly

About This Article

Article Summary X

When installing shingles, start past laying a narrow row of shingles at the bottom of the roof forth the edge. Next, lay the commencement total row of shingles so they're directly covering the starter row. Go on laying your shingles horizontally up the roof. If y'all hit a stack, vent, or chimney, interlace the shingles with the flashing to let water to run down the roof. When you attain the peak, either bring the ridge edges together with a ridge-capping layer or cut regular shingles into 3 tabbed, equal pieces and bend them so they fit on the roof elevation. For more tips near how to lay shingles from our General Contractor reviewer, including how to employ an alternating pattern, keep reading!

Did this summary assist you?

Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 660,110 times.

Did this article aid you?

Source: https://www.wikihow.com/Lay-Shingles

Posted by: normanlowelies.blogspot.com

Share this post